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Kremt Season – The Ethiopian Monsoon

Rain storm approaches in mountains of Tigray

Rain storm approaches in mountains of Tigray

When is the Kremt?

The Ethiopian highlands get drenched each year from late June through September. In Addis the rains are heavy and start early and end late finally finishing at the start of October. But by mid to late September the rain becomes noticeably lighter and less frequent. Further north they might not kick in till mid July and tend to fizzle out a bit earlier in September.

Visiting Ethiopia during the Kremt

People ask about visiting Ethiopia during this Kremt season. For people living in Addis Ababa, looking for an escape from the cold and wet weather the best advice is to go to somewhere lower in

Kremt Rain Addis

Kremt rains in Addis  

altitude. Take a break from Addis by visiting Bahir Dar or Arba Minch. Or just head into the Rift Valley, as even the 50km drive to Bishoftu gives you a change in climate. Yes it’s still rains, but the rain storms are shorter lived with more blue sky between, and temperatures are a good deal higher than in Addis.

If the Kremt is your time to visit Ethiopia, don’t worry most places are still good to visit. You just need to be prepared that a rainstorm might track through and you will be sitting in a cafe, chatting to people waiting for the weather to clear. So don’t try to pack too much into one day but give yourself a little bit of extra time. And of course do pack the right clothes (it will be cooler and rain jackets are  needed – and maybe an umbrella!).  Of course the high mountains with moorland at around 4,000 meters altitude are perhaps not the best places to go. Particularly in the

Blue Nile Falls

Blue Nile Falls

Simien mountains where you could be in cloud and driving rain for very long periods of time. But it may still be worth spending a night at the lodge for the probability of clear skies early in the morning and amazing views. Some of our community treks are not advisable at this time and we close at a number of guest houses. However Lalibela, Gondar and Bahir Dar are well worth visiting at this time. Indeed by August the Blue Nile Falls – locally known as Tissisat are really pumping. Harar to the east, and many places in the south are also great to see in the rainy season. In fact in the far southwest, in the

Meket Shepherd boy with whip

Meket Shepherd boy with whip

Omo Valley July and August are not even rainy season.

Festivals in the Kremt 

There are also some key festivals to look out for in August. The Buhe/Ashenda festival time comes in late August. Buhe is celebrated in Addis on 19 August with the Debre Tabor holiday marking Jesus’ Transfiguration. Special bread is baked, and there is singing and dancing around campfires. A few days later, Ashenda is celebrated as the two week long Filsetta Fast ends. This is mostly a women’s day where they dress up often with skirts of grass and dance and sing, but in some areas such as around Lalibela and Meket, boys will have a contest to see who can make the loudest whip crack.

What is the Kremt?

Trading routes used by dhows in the Indian Ocean and the monsoon

Trading routes used by dhows and the monsoon

So is the Kremt season really a monsoon? Technically yes, this rain is driven by the same global patterns that drive India’s monsoon. There is a kind of climatic equator where the Southern and Northern Hemisphere’s meet called the Inter-

Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) . This was the phenomenon that causes the doldrums sailors used to fear. In July-September this band moves north, far north into Asia and it also moves north of the Horn of Africa. Behind it it pulls up winds that blow broadly north from the Indian Ocean, and these moisture ladened winds soak the Ethiopian highlands with life giving rains.

This monsoon even has an effect on Oman’s east coast with the Dhofar mountains getting a good soaking in the same period, before returning to the usual dry arid climate. Along Africa’s east coast trading Dhows used this shift in winds to sail north the July-Sept and as the ITCZ shifts south from October, so the winds would switch allowing sailors to take their shows as far south as Madagascar. Zanzibar was off course a key port and trading centre in this international traffic, with its fabled spices. It was in fact part of the Sultanate of Oman.

The Kremt and the Origin of Ethiopia’s Calendar

Nile flood waters at Giza

Nile flood waters at Giza

Ethiopia’s Kremt rains have also had a huge effect on Egypt. Ancient Egyptians relied upon the Nile’s floodwaters to reinvigorate the lands beside the Nile and so allow them to plant a crop as the floodwaters receded. For them the flood was a renewal. The ancient Egyptian New Year started when the Nile began to flood. And it is no surprise that this flood was due to the deluge in the highlands of Ethiopia, most of the water from which makes its way into the Nile basin. And in an ironic exchange Ethiopia has taken the basic timeframe of the Egyptian calendar for itself. The Ethiopian New Year which is currently on the 11th of September each year is derived from the ancient Egyptian New Year. Over the many thousands of years the date has slipped back from mid August when the flooding starts.

So whether you live in Ethiopia and are wondering if you have to endure endless weeks of rain in Addis, or you are considering to visit Ethiopia and are wondering if the rainy season is an OK time to see this marvellous country, please talk to us as Tesfa Tours and we can ensure you see some blue skies, get some sunshine and experience the best of Ethiopia.

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The Tesfa Calendar is ready!

 

The new and unique Tesfa Calendar –

runs from Sep 2020 – Aug 2021 (ie Ethiopian Year 2013) is now in its 14th year and is ready!

This calendar is unique in that it details the Ethiopia dates, holidays, saints days, fasts, Islamic holidays and more on to a western calendar month format. This goes along side stunning photos that will make you want to get out of Addis, or fly over from where ever you have the calendar and see this beautiful country. The photos are taken from the Tesfa Community treks across the north of the country (the Agenda has photos from other additional places too).

 The Tesfa Agenda – 1 week to a page

The calendar comes in 3 versions:

Traditional hanging calendar (29.5cm across and 51cm opened hanging down) – 12 months with 13 photos. Donation 250birr.
You can buying this levitra properien download the coupon after submitting the online registration form. We should fight with the monster viagra online free of sexual disorders which are interrupting your sex life. Another symptom is purchase levitra online amerikabulteni.com the need to empty the bladder often during the day. They do not need to disclose viagra 100mg pfizer the problem of ED in men.
Desktop version to fit on your desk (approx 20cm x 17cm) – same

The Hanging Calendar

pages – with photos facing back and dates forward. We ask 150 birr donation for these calendars.

The Agenda (approx 21cm x 15cm) in portrait format, has 1 week to a page and so 53 pages (52.14 weeks a year) – running from Monday to Sunday on one side on easy to write on paper, additional information on the day and with a photo to match on opposite page. Donation 350birr.

We ask a donation to help support the Tesfa communities who have guesthouses around the country hosting visitors enabling them to walk through their beautiful landscapes.  The calendars are available from our offices at Kebena, but we will also have copies at various locations around Addis.

For further information email calendars@tesfatours.com

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Tesfa treks ‘are one of the best’ – in the Rough Guides

Tesfa treks are down in Rough Guides as ‘one of the best 7 walking trips you’ve never heard of!

Recognising the off the beaten trail nature of the Tesfa treks,  the Rough Guides have us – check it out

See the various community treks that are possible with Tesfa Tours in Ethiopia . – in Wollo near Lalibela, in Tigray’s Agame mountains, in the Simiens south of the National Park, and on the Rift Valley escarpment near Ankober in the Wof Washa forest
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Ethiopian holidays that can change lives – article in the UK Guardian Newspaper

A great article by Kevin Rushby in the Guardian Newspaper (26Jan 2019)

A farmer in Janamora Woreda – Photo by Kevin Rushby

“A new tourism project in the northern Ethiopia highlands brings spectacular scenery and a warm welcome, where ‘your holiday can become the source of someone else’s dreams’.

We arrive at sunset. The guesthouse sits on a rising prow of rock with dizzying views of the vast gorge below. The altitude is around 3,000 metres, and after six hours’ walking, I am tired. Inside the thatched hut, two young

photo of Ras Dashen while on a Tesfa Trek in Simiens, curtesy of Kevin Rushby


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women are tending a fire where the shiro, a kind of bean stew, is cooking. I glance out of the small window and a lammergeier, a bearded vulture, comes sailing past. Perhaps he, too, is drawn by the smell of food. This is a hungry land. My guide, Suleiman, comes in and we chat to the women, who seem very excited and happy…..”

https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2019/jan/26/ethiopia-holiday-can-change-lives-new-tourism-project?CMP=share_btn_link

 

 

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Driving the Backroads of Ethiopia – The Canyonlands

Day 4/5, 30 Sep – 1 Oct

The night before I hooked up with my clients, Mark and Nikki, experts on trekking in extreme environments, and running medical training on such trips. I also scrubbed the first couple of days grime off.

We set off after breakfast, and drove north to Sekota, the highland capital of Wag Hamra. It’s a lovely drive: the road is being asphalted and winds through a mountainous agricultural landscape with a mix of green crops in the fields.

We refilled with fuel and grabbed a great goat tibbs and shiro in town, stopping on our way out for a delicious coffee and apparently the best tea on the planet.

Fully charged we turned on to the road north, now a poor dirt road. Some 20 km from Sekota we turned westwards off the ‘main’ north road onto a feeder road going deeper into Wag Hamra. The road was surprisingly good. Still driving in agricultural highlands with green fields, the road wound around to give us a view of the canyons to come.

We dropped down in altitude, and found ourselves staring at jagged peaks and volcanic plugs, a testament to the part volcanic activity.

On the edge of the woreda town of Ziquala Wag Hamera, we stopped at a water pump to fill a couple of jerrycans for camping.

There were about 8 kids around including several beautiful girls dressed elegantly, not how how you’d think to dress to fetch water.

A few kilometres north west of town, I spotted a dry river bed running towards the gorge and a way to drive into the river bed and under the bridge. We were able to camp just off the riverbed in case of a flash flood.

Stunning canyon; great campsite; poyke camp cooking. Had a local lad come and collect firewood for us. He enjoyed a cup of tea with us and reappeared next morning with fresh goats milk.

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Photo curtesy of Nikki McLeary. Local, helpful Agaw lad

We slept under pop-up mossie nets, hoping the little white scorpions that were running around, wouldn’t get in. But it was great to sleep under the stars.

Photo curtesy of Nikki McLeary

After a breakfast of grapefruit and porridge (& goats milk)we set off westwards. We passed an intriguing sign for a Kidist Arsema monastery that pointed into the gorge. To be explored!

We headed down along the canyon which was now flooded by the damn on the Tekeze. The houses were constructed from wood, presumably drift wood that’s washed down the gorges.

A long bailey bridge took us over a flooded gorges stretching southwards. Flotsam consisting of drift wood and even while trees was pushing against the bridge. The locals told us that there were crocodiles in the water so no swimming.

After the bridge we drove over a pass, where the road was being improved. The land to the west was a bit greener.

We were getting hungry and so very happy to pull into the woreda town of Shefru. We drove into a compound where we found ice cold beers and delicious goat tibbs.

Photo curtesy of Nikki McLeary

The kids were fascinated by the arrival of ferengis in a Blue Landrover and found a hole in the fence to peak in.

Our team was waiting in a village called Guaroch under the Simien escarpment that loomed to the west. Dawit (my driver) was told there was a way to drive through the lowlands and come out at Addis Zemen, just south of Gondar. We set off on the final leg of the the drive. We found the turn off from the more main road to Guaroch. This was the only bit of road that really needed a good 4WD, but was a short road. We saw Guaroch ahead, drove through the village to the school and where able to drive into the compound, although we had to widen the gap in the wall.

Guaroch was a tiny Agaw village at the foot of the southern part of the Simien massif. The school director was very helpful and we borrowed some school benches and got a little fire wood for a camp fire. The altitude was 1,700m so it was still warm and we used our pop up nets.

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Driving the backroads in Ethiopia

After managing some repairs to a broken door lock, Dawit (a lovely guy and experienced driver) & I left Addis at 9:45 on Meskal morning. A quiet holiday morning after the bonfires the night before that celebrate the Meskal Eve. We are breakfast in Mukuturi, a town on the main road north from Addis we said goodbye to the asphalt and headed east on a gravel road. We were in the very north of Oromia region; horse country, but lots of cattle too.

We crossed Jammu river and stopped to see pilgrims from a bus (en route from Jimma to Gishen Mariam) washing in the river. We saw our tyre getting flat. It was 1,275 m above sea level. The temperature felt like 40*C. The nuts for the wheel got so hot they burned my fingers when I picked them up. It took 45 min to change tyre. I got my workout jacking up the car, moving wheels around, etc. I was able to wash in the river, which flowed with warm water.

We finally left at 1:40, but with no working spare tyre now ?. If another tyre was to go we were in deep dudu.

The Jammu river was our first gorge … first of many.

Fortunately 20 minutes later we pulled into a small place called Fetera, found a ‘gomista’ to fix the tyres and ate enjara & beg tibs, before setting off with our two working spares. ?

Soon we got to close to Alem Ketema (one of the main towns marked in our route) but the road out was a sharp left just west of the town so we didn’t see the place..

The effect remains up to purchase generic cialis 4 to 6 hours after intake. Since researchers consider over masturbation an addiction therefore different natural ways to ends over masturbation effects need to be implemented out of which taking natural supplements is the most levitra no prescription prominent one. This usually arises when there is buy cheap cialis visit for more lack of communication, stress, depression, high blood pressure, sexual transmitted diseases, etc. When faced with chronic stress and an over activated autonomic nervous system, he noted, viagra tablets in india a physical toll begins to appear. We drove back west then north down to the Wonchit river, gorge number 2. We enjoyed the sight of terraced fields of emerald green teff and lower down sorghum field with stalks well over 2 meters high. It was a rich farm land.

People all dressed in holiday clothes, interested to see us pass

We crossed the river on a narrow Bailey bridge at around 1,370 meters, and drove back up into the highlands. We were shocked to hit asphalt, but it was on edge of a small town. I noted smart hotel which looked ok. The asphalt ended 500m outside town.

We drove through several small towns but the roads between were rough. We were on a plateau around 2,500 m. The wonchit gorge to our right. We soon realised that we were loosing the power steering. The oil had drained out. Dawit filled the fluid levels up but it went back out. The steering was hard without the power steering and we risked blowing the pump.

Next up the engine oil level light came on. That was a loose bolt. With some help from a passing truck we got that fixed and added some oil. The joys of an old Landrover.

We rocked up in Were Ilu, an historic town in N. Shoa at about 7pm. Found a decent hotel, a meal and a good sleep.

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The Ethiopian New Year & the month Meskeram

Meskal flowers in Meket, North Wollo

September is a wonderful time in Ethiopia and particularly the Ethiopian month of Meskerem that runs from 11th September -10th October marking the beginning of the Ethiopian year. The countryside is lit up with the masses of bright yellow ‘Meskal’ daisies and more sunshine flickering through the rain clouds, and it brings with it all the promise of the new year.

However 2009 ends with that Ethiopian peculiarity, the 13th month or Pagumay. It is generally 5 days long, but on leap years it is 6 days. It works as a fill in with all other months being 30 days and 12 x 30 being 360, so it adds up the year to 365 days. There is one very special day in Pagume– St Rufael’s day which is on 3rd day of the month (8th Sept). If it rains on this day the rain is holy and blesses those it falls on.  A great day for dancing in the rain! St Rufael for those that did not know (and I had to look it up!) is an archangel coming 3rd in rank after St Michael and St Gabriel.

The Demara – the flames of the Meskal fire.

So what are the celebrations for New Year? It is of course not only a national holiday but a feast day and families will celebrate the New year together on the 11th – Enkutetash as the day is called. They will visit and be visited by close friends and relatives.
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It is closely followed by Meskal which his celebrated across the country but most especially in parts of the south such as Gurage, Wolaita, and in the north in the town of Adigrat. Across the country bonfires – demara -are erected around a central pole that holds a cross and are decorated with the Meskal flowers. In Addis they are lit on the night before Meskal 26 Sep or Meskeram 16.  The big demara will be in Meskal Square but they are in every neighbourhood, roundabout and street corner. The fire is lit and goes up with much dancing and wielding of sticks and the direction which the cross falls is said to predict the success of that years harvest. Meskal day itself – the 27th is another public holiday, and families will again celebrate with a feast at home.

Stick Dancing in Meket

Meskal (itself means cross) is a ceremony that commemorates the Finding of the True Cross. Legend has it that in 326 AD, Queen Eleni (Empress Helena, mother of Constantine the Great) was guided by a dream to light a fire and follow the smoke to find the True Cross. The smoke rose high in the sky and descended at the point where she found the Cross. Many think that Meskal marks the end of the rainy season, well not quite, but its true the rains get less frequent, the flowers are in full bloom and the promise of a new harvest is seen around the country. But don’t put away your rain clothes, for the end of the rainy season – as per the old time calendar – is Meskeram 25th, or 5th October.

If you want to know in advance of the holidays coming up and the workings of the Ethiopian calendar then why not pick up a Tesfa Calendar from Tesfa Tours. It starts on 1st Sep 2017 and runs til 31stAug 2018. it has Saints days, fasts, Ethiopian dates and a wealth of other information set into the western calendar, with wonderful photographs from the Tesfa Village treks across the country – which will make you want to get out of Addis and explore this beautiful country.  Please contact calendars@tesfatours.com or tel 011 124 5178 to get your copy.

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Danakil trip – places available

Ertale Volcano

The caldera on Ertale – feel the heat of a live volcano

Tesfa Tours is running two Danakil trips in September.

Each is a 2 night / 3 day adventure taking in the desert with the stunning mineral deposits and Erta Ale volcano with the active lava lake.

The first departure date is 4 September from Mekele / returning on 6th September in the afternoon.

potash and sulpher deposits

Spectacular mineral deposits at Dalol

The second trip will run starting on 28th September and return on 30 September.

Both start and end in Mekele and can include airport pickup and drop off.

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Tesfa Tours own 4WDs in Dalol

The maximum number of clients on a trip is eight! Which keeps it small, personal and flexible to your needs.

For more information please contact Danakil@tesfatours.com

For a complete holiday why not add a couple of days walking in the mountains of Eastern Tigray after your Danakil safari?

 

 

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Client looking to join others on Ethiopia Tour in early September

We have a request from a single client looking to join a group on the first half of September. The client is interested in all areas of Ethiopia. Contact betty@tesfatours.com if you Don’t Stalk After ordering viagra online Networking Events After attending a networking event, many networking hunters send out an email promoting their product or service to people who attended the event. Now they don’t need to share others about discount viagra unica-web.com the drug, treatment, its ingredients, benefits and adverse results. You can include artichokes, apples, unica-web.com viagra soft tabs prunes, coconut water, blackberries, cranberries, wild blueberries, coconut water and red beans in your diet. buy soft cialis Here, generic medicines have been mentioned that proven best to overcome the erectile dysfunction: Kamagra Tablets The first generic version, prepared with the sildenafil citrate 100mg strength. would be interested to join a tour at that time. It should probably include some trekking in the mountains in Tigray with local communities, as well as historical places across the country.

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Journey in the Mountains of Tigray on the May Day weekend

Book a trip now while places are available for the May day weekend (1-5 May)

View from Enaf Community Guest house

View from Enaf Community Guest house

Experience the beauty and serenity of the Mountains of Eastern Tigray. Explore the Agame massif, a much less visited mountain block just north of Gheralta.  Walk along the sandstone ridges enjoying spectacular views and through the intensely farmed  valleys. Among the wildlife you can see are  Gelada baboons, birds of prey (Lammergeyers, Batteleur Eagles, Marshal Eagles and more) soaring on the thermals, many many smaller birds (Bee eaters, sunbirds, chats, cordon bleu and many more) and Rock hyraxes. You will be hosted by the local people,  a people who still use age-old farming practices and live life with a fierce pride in their own special history and culture.

IMG_2644

Farmhouse (Hedemo) in Agame Mountains

On the walks you will come across several lovely rock hewn churches (there is also a built up church in the style of Debre Damo on a ledge in the cliff), and rock tunnel excavated through the mountain to connect farmers to the west with the church to the east. End your trip with a night at one of the beautiful lodges in the area and see a couple of the more visited rock churches of Tigray before returning to the hussle and bussle of Addis Ababa!

Price for 2 people (sharing a room) $700 USD per person (payable in birr, Euro, Sterling or USD).
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Includes Local flight (based on clients providing a valid Ethiopian Resident or ID card); three nights at Tesfa Community Guest houses with the fully catered trek & one night at Gheralta or Agoro Lodge; transport in 4WD from Mekele A/P to trek, from trek to Lodge & to explore churches & on last day back to Mekele A/P; a guide on each day, full board on the Tesfa trek and breakfast at the Lodge.

Excludes church entry fees and any arrangements in Addis Ababa. Meals (other than breakfast at the Lodge) when not on the trek, bottled drinks on & off trek.

Email Mayday@tesfatours.com for more details and to check availability

RockChurch AbYemGoh web

Ceiling frescoe at Abuna Yemata Goh (Gheralta Massif)

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