Travel information on Security & Safety for visitors in Ethiopia

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Lalibela & Gondar get the green light  in UK Travel Advice

UK travel advise for Ethiopia

UK travel advise for Ethiopia

The UK government have changed the travel advise for Ethiopia’s key tourist sites – Lalibela and Gondar – home to stunning rock hewn churches, and romantic castles. The UK had been advising against travel to these places and to the roads that connect them but this negative advise has now been lifted. 

Along with Bahir Dar and Lake Tana this now means much of the northern historical circuit is in the UK’s ‘green zone’.

Giyorgis church in Lalibela

What does this mean for you? If you are travelling in these areas, your normal travel insurance will cover you. 

We have been arguing for months that the Travel Advice should be relaxed. As I mentioned in previous posts I have visited Lalibela 3 times since January and  felt completely safe and welcome each time. I also visited Gondar once (going on to the Simien Mountains) and also felt safe throughout my visit. This change in travel advice reinforces this view.

We are also really happy that this change means that the community tourism guesthouses in Meket and along the roads that approach Lalibela from the south are now also out of the red. We look forward to more trekkers enjoying this marvelous scenery as hosts of the local farmers.

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Mysterious monasteries as Ethiopia travel gets easier

Mysterious hidden Monastery

Bethlehem church Roof stone and timber

Bethlehem church – timber & stone roof

The mysterious Bethlehem monastery is gearing up to welcome the first tourists. This monastery was reportedly built in the fourth century following the construction of Mariam Sion church in Axum. It is built in the ancient way with blocks of stone for the floor and walls and then a wooden roof, but what makes this church even more intriguing is that it is hidden by typical round wall with a corrugated roof, and so from outside looks like most other churches, although it is anything but!

Bethlehem church -Flagstone marking entrance to basement chambers

Flagstone marking entrance to basement chambers

Even more mysterious is that the monks claim that the Ark of Covenant is kept
beneath the church. They recount the tale of an Italian version of Indiana Jones who some 80 years ago determined to explore the chambers beneath the church. Apparently he came up having experienced an explosion he assumed to be volcanic, left the church and died within a day. The priests sealed the access stone and no one has been back down since.
This monastery is one of the key learning places – a church university for priests who want to study the scriptures and music of St. Yared, and there is a residential compound attached to the church.
We are now able to arrange for guests to stay at Bethlehem, either in a guesthouse or in tents, which will fit perfectly onto a trip between the Tesfa community guesthouses in neighbouring Meket (just south of Lalibela), and Gondar or Bahir Dar.

Travel to Ethiopia gets easier

Bole Airport Addis Ababa

Bole Airport in Addis

With Omicron replacing the Delta variant across the world the threat of COVID 19 has diminished. Although cases may have increased and transmission is rapid, immunity and much lower mortality and hospitalisation seem to follow. Official statistics for Ethiopia show that deaths of people with COVID and active cases have all but disappeared now. In Addis Ababa, where previous spikes in mortality were visible as funeral tents went up along the roads, life has settled down to something approaching normal.
In terms of travel, the Ethiopian Public Health Institute has now revised the directive with the result that travellers do not need to have a negative PCR test if they are vaccinated against COVID (all the mainstream western and Chinese vaccines – all double doses – except J&J, valid two weeks after vaccination) and can provide evidence (one presumes a certificate with the correct stamp on it).
This means the end for most travellers of expensive PCR tests and the worry about having travel plans cancelled due to a positive test.

E-Visas being processed

E-Visa page

Add to this that the online visa applications are being processed speedily now – but do use the correct government website .  Make sure you are using the one ending .gov.et.   You will need the address of your first night in a hotel, and a digital passport photo less than 2MB best as JPEG format. And same size/ format for a copy of the info page of your passport.  If you do not hear back from them in 72 hours please contact us – they may need a nudge to get it done.

Simien Mnt Lodge - High altitude accommodation

Simien Mnt Lodge

National Park Re-opened

The Simien National Park, which was closed during the conflict, is now open for business and Simien Mountain Lodge, which recently was renovated, is serving clients again. Through most of the last 24 months they have kept their staff on the payroll and remain a beacon of light for tourism in the area. Too many tourism professionals have suffered, while others have looked for alternative income streams that have taken them away from the sector. That this lodge remained open has given some of these people hope that tourism will return.

World class attractions

Sebreatsemu Giyorgis in Lalibela - tabots return to the church

Giyorgis church – Rock-hewn in Lalibela

Now that fighting across the region has stopped, the State of Emergency ended, and flight services resumed, the first trickle of visitors is returning to some of the attractions in the region: Lake Tana with its secluded monasteries; Lalibela with its labyrinth of rock-hewn churches connected by passageways and tunnels; Gondar with its romantic castles, baths and an extra ordinary church, and the Simien Mountain National Park with its high mountains, vertical escarpments and unique flora and fauna. Three of these are UNESCO World Heritage sites, and the fourth, Lake Tana, is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and all are amazing places to visit.

Dawn at Mescha community guesthouse Wof Washa

Mescha guesthouse, Wof Washa forest

Community Tourism

Tesfa Community Treks are also getting going again, as a steady stream of hikers has made their way to the guesthouses in Wof Washa Forest (near Ankober) and to the mountains around Lalibela to explore these stunning areas and experience the lives of the local farmers. Here the local host communities, after two years with virtually no guests, are thrilled to receive visitors again.  Treks can be from 2 nights upwards, and we can do several nights at one guesthouse for those wanting more time with the communities. More details on our website.

Book your trip soon!

I urge you to look at visiting Ethiopia soon. These remarkable places are quiet and peaceful. You can enjoy them without the crowds that were coming in 2019, and in the process help the guides, and other tourism professionals and service givers who are really struggling.  Contact us here or email us on info@tesfatours.com

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‘Je m’appelle Demissie!’

Revisiting Lalibela and the North

Sebtretsemu Giyorgis festival Lalibela

Giyorgis church for festival in Lalibela

As I head back to Addis after four days travelling in Amhara region, I’m struck by how normal things are, yet Ethiopia is far from normal as we get caught up in processions to celebrate the Ascension of St Mary. It is the wonderful abnormalities that make Ethiopia so fascinating and beautiful.

In four days I’ve visited remote monasteries to be told that in actual fact the Ark of Covenant lies beneath its ancient stone floor, and carries a fearsome power that killed the only person who attempted to uncover it; I’ve seen the sacred

Giyorgis Tabot camps out near Yadukulay Guesthouse

tabots, the holy heart of the church, camping out in fields surrounded by brocaded umbrellas and chanting; we’ve been generously hosted in people’s houses with plates of enjara, spicy sauces, curds, local beer etc, I’ve visited people who have endured the horrors of war and yet emerged smiling and happy to have foreign guests.

As we drove in and out from Lalibela numerous times this week, we became well known at the checkpoints and were always ushered through with a broad smile, but I will remember one soldier most: each time we passed he called out: “Bonjour. Ça va?” And today he greeted us with: “Je m’appelle Demisie”.

Community guesthouse at Boya, some damage

Community guesthouse at Boya, some damage


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Wherever you go Ethiopia is full of surprises which give you many reasons to smile, and remind me why I love this country so much.

The big news from this recce trip is that the communities in Meket and the neighbouring areas are eager to host tourists again. Yes they have faced hardships, and many guesthouses have had materials looted by TPLF or damaged, but they were so happy to see me after this time. I was greeted with

Villagers from Wajela guesthouse want tourists back

hugs and smiles.

The community trekking guides in Lalibela are also desperate for work and want to start as soon as they can.

We have repairs to do and purchases to make to get the guesthouses up to standard and to help those communities that suffered the most. If you would like to contribute please get in touch with me.

But please also help to get the business started again. I can promise you or your friends an amazing adventure in Ethiopia.

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Melkam Timkat

Worshippers holding tapers on Jan Meda for Timkat

Worshippers on Jan Meda for Timkat

 

 

Huge overhead flag on Addis Ababa street

Flags decorate the roads that the Tabots will be processed along

Timkat is one of the most important festivals in the Ethiopian Orthodox church, celebrating the baptism of Jesus in the Rive Jordan. On the days leading up to Timkat, Addis Ababa is decked out with colourful flags and other decorations to make the routes that the sacred Tabots will travel on as beautiful as possible.  Roads are swept and drains cleared. Today (Tuesday) the eve of Timkat the tabots are processed out of the churches across the country to the special grounds where the baptismal ceremony will be staged on the day.
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Replica on St Georges church from Lalibela in Addis for Timkat

A replica on Bete Giyorgis church of Lalibela on a roundabout in Addis

This year I have seen remarkable edifices erected – such as the replica of Bete Giyorgis – the famous rockhewn church of Lalibela on roundabouts where the Tabots will pass.

Church music & flags for Timkat on Jan Meda

Church music & flags for Timkat on Jan Meda

But most moving is the many thousands of people that go to the special Timkat grounds across the capital and indeed across the country. Holding ‘twafs’ (tapers) they pray and hold vigil near the tabots. There is a serenity and beauty the I really love in these places and even the presence of a foreigner like me with his bike was welcomed by all.
I and the team at Tesfa Tours, wish everyone a wonderful Timkat holiday – Enkwanaderasachu!

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Keep informed about Ethiopia -Subscribe to our newsletter

A gorge in North Shoa

Ethiopia – Gorgeous !

Sign up to receive our updates on the situation in Ethiopia and how tourism is coming back. I will also be keeping you updated on the situation of our guesthouses and the communities who own them.

It should go without saying that your contact details will only be used by Tesfa Tours, we will not inundate you with too many updates, and you will always have the option to unsubscribe should you want to.

 

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Ethiopian Pilgrims celebrate Christmas in Lalibela

Gena ceremony in Lalibela

Gena ceremony in Lalibela

It was very special this year as Ethiopian Pilgrims celebrated Gena -Ethiopian Christmas-  in Lalibela, a town which was taken by the TPF several times in recent months. Lalibela is the most holy place to celebrate Gena in all of Ethiopia, the new Jerusalem, built by the Saint King Lalibela at the end of the 12th century as an alternative for Ethiopians from making the dangerous journey to Jerusalem for Christmas. Each year thousands of pilgrims walk across country to celebrate Gena in a special ceremony above the churches

https://www.africanews.com/2022/01/07/after-fights-pilgrims-return-to-ethiopian-world-heritage-site-lalibela/

Rufael & Gabriel churches in Lalibela

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Lalibela, with its labyrinth of churches hewn out of the bedrock in the 12th century, has become the flagship of Ethiopian Tourism, and is often described as the 8th wonder of the world. 

We hope that this celebration at the beginning of 2022 will be the beginning of Tourism restarting in Ethiopia. Near to Lalibela, in the mountains a little to the south are a series of community owned guest houses were tourists have been trekking in the beautiful countryside for the last 10 years or more. I will be able to find out in the coming days when we can restart this community trekking.

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Tesfa Ethiopian Calendar 2014 (EC) ready

Tesfa Tours Calendar

 

 

 

 

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Tesfa Tours Calendar

 

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Tesfa Tours receives Travelife award for Sustainability

We are excited to have ‘graduated’ after many months of work to become a Travelife Partner. Thanks to the support from CBI and our coaches to take us through the steps.

Please see our sustainability policy  which I think is where it all starts.  We firmly believe that every business and individual need to make steps towards greater sustainability to give us a chance to have a future.
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We don’t have many answers – and are keen for our friends, supporters , supplier and clients to help us along this path, so feel free to make suggestions of comments.

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Lideta Mariam

Today  saw the celebration of Lideta Mariam – the celebration of the birth of St.Mary. Across the country families are celebrating together and with their neighbours this very special holiday. If possible a sheep is slaughtered and tibbs eaten.

It is also Orthodox Ascension Day – Dagma Tins’aie which always follows Easter (Fasika) by a week, and so it is a lucky coincidence that both dates fall together.
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Let Tesfa Tours arrange a trip for you to coincide with one of Ethiopia’s special Saints Days or holidays.

Our thoughts are also with those who are in circumstances where celebration is not possible.

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Happy New Year to all of our Friends

Mulat – every smiling guide

We have had a lot of holidays here in the last few weeks: Christmas, Gabriel, Western New Year, and Gena yesterday. We hope all of our friends and supporters have had a good holiday season and we hope that 2021 proves to be a marked improvement on 2020. However we have celebrated under a bit of a cloud, as for a long time we have not been able to contact some of our team members and good friends who are in Adigrat.

For those of you who have trekked in the Agame mountains you will know what a wonderful team of guides, communities and our two drivers we have there. Over the last few weeks information trickled in that this person and that person was OK but I just now had great news from one of the original guides from the Community Tourism in Tigray: Mulat. He came to Mekele and called me and he, his family and all of the community tourism guides are fine.

Hailay (Tesfa Tours driver) peeling a prickly Pear – Beles fruit!

The other news is that the Tesfa guesthouses are OK, I think one has been occupied, but other than that they should be OK when we can resume tourism in the area (not in the near future though).
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Life has been tough for everyone – but electricity is now restored. There is still no mobile network north of Mekele, and banks are not working, but at least our team are OK.

This will put a smile on all our faces – a real cause to be happy. Lets hope for more positive news and more positive developments where ever you are as 2021 gets underway.  Happy New Year.

 

 

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