Travel information on Security & Safety for visitors in Ethiopia

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Tigray – new community guest house

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Community guest house at Amba Fekada

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Ruins near Amba Fekada, said to be a temple of the Queen of Sheba

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Pre Axumite rock art

A new community guest house has opened in the north of Tigray on a mountain called Amba Fekada. The mountain is surrounded by gorges, and across one valley you can see the mountain on which Debre Damo is perched. In the nearby village is a church, whose compound is full of fallen down pillars that date back to the early or even pre-Axumite period. There is also a patch of rock on Amba Fekada with a painting that is also pre-Axumite depicting humpless cattle ploughing (which dates the painting to the period before humped cattle were introduced.
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At the moment we are suggesting a night here with the community- your guide from Adigrat will help you get a bus up from town, costing less than 10 birr a seat, you would then spend part of the day exploring the area and the sites. After a night as guests of the local community, either do some more exploring or scatch the bus back to Adigrat.

Adigrat can be reached on the good asphalt roads from Axum or Mekele on public transport, or let us arrange a private vehicle for you.

We hope that very soon you will be able to trek to or from Amba Fekada, Chehat (the guest house to the south) and Mugulat (the guest house that connects the trek to the more established community guest houses, west and south of Adigrat.

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Community Trekking in Ethiopia

As the Ethiopian New Year approaches, its time to book up your trek. The community trekking is getting booked up over the holidays periods -the last two weeks of October and over Christmas and New Year.

There is no better way to see the Ethiopian countryside than a Tesfa Trek. Whether you are looking for a challenging trek or an amble through the countryside a Tesfa trek is best way to see the Real Ethiopia!

I just stumbled across a good link to the article that Machan Magan wrote for the Irish Times in 2009 . Of course now there are more communities hosting guests – eleven in North
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Wollo and four in Tigray, and there are other communities providing lunch.  But the experience is still the same!

Trekking in Tigray, flowering Aloe

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Giyorgis festival in Meket

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  The festival is called Sebar-atsemu Giyorgis – and commemorates the day that St George’s bones were ground into dust. I decided to visit one of the Tesfa communities in Meket whose parish is St.George and where it is the big annual festival. So we went to Aina Amba Giyorgis on 26th January, the eve of the festival.

IMG_3906.JPGAina Amba is in a stunning location, and the community cooked us a lovely dinner on  the night before.

IMG_3953.JPG Next morning the crowds began to gather, and soon after 9am the Tabot was paraded out of the church carried by priests in colourful robes under brocade umbrellas. The crowd emerged from the wooded compound before emerging out onto the dry dusty grazing land below the church and with the tabot and priests in their midst accompanied it to its camp in a colourful tent nearby.
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This was the signal for groups to start dancing and singing to the beat of the marvellous kabero drums. The dancing is an aggressive dance, with shoulders seemingly dislocated from the body jerking up and down to the drum’s beat.

IMG_3958.JPGAfter some hours the Tabot emerged from its tent and was again paraded as it slowly made its way up to the church, but this time with horses galloping around the procession. Now everyone was there, old men carrying older muskets, younger people from the nearby town, important people with colourful umbrellas, bit most in the traditional white cotton shawls.

IMG_4056.JPG At a given point the procession stopped and a series of wild horse races took place to honour the tabot. This is referred to as gooks, although there is no spear throwing as further south. The  horses are wonderfully decorated with bright pompoms and colourful saddle cloths and the riders, three or four at a time, gallop up the fields, often without holding on.

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Road trip over Nile gorges

IMG_2441.JPGCheck out the new photos of the road trip over many gorges, new bridges etc on my Picasa photos.

Also have a look at the other albums – new photo of a Lammergeyer and Lovebird on the wildlife album.
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Great new restaurant in Lalibela – Ben Abeba

I have just returned from Lalibela and have had the best European food there.

IMG_2261.JPG The new restaurant is called Ben Abeba, its opened by Susan from Scotland and Habtamu – a local of Lalibela.

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For information of how to get there (they can help with transport from your hotel) or to make a reservation call 092 234 5122

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Duty mobile contact

Tesfa tours has just set up a duty mobile that one of our staff will have – +251 (0)92 349 0495.

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Should I visit Ethiopia while there is a drought?

As various agencies are reporting a drought in Ethiopia and the horn of Africa, with million Ethiopians in need of emergency assistance, I thought it could be useful to answer some of the questions people frequently ask us.

Is there drought all over Ethiopia?

No it is mainly in areas to the east of the country – lowland pastoralist areas for the most part.

Is there food available in Ethiopia?

YES. Ethiopia produces grows many crops and has a vast number of livestock. Food is available.

The real hardship is caused by the economic effect of drought. Those suffering from the loss of agricultural production and loss of livestock are unable to afford to buy food from the market. It may well be that there is food around in the country, but it has to be paid for and those with nothing to sell have no means to buy anything.

What will it be like in the Tesfa Trekking areas?

In Tigray and North Wollo there has been good rain this year. Some of the trekking areas plant a crop with a rain called the Belge (or short rains)t hat typically falls between February and April. This year the Belge was good (it is intermittent rain over the months). The main rains – called the Kremt have started across the north of the country (including the areas around Addis) and predictions seem quite good, although there are predictions of floods.
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How can one part of Ethiopia suffer drought and another receive rains?

Ethiopia is a vast country with a high plateau in the north west with Africa’s highest agricultural lands, and lowlands to the north east reaching below sea level. The south east is continuous with Somalia and has the Somali climate not the highland Ethiopian one, and the south west runs into northern Kenya and South Sudan and has a more similar climate to those countries near the Ethiopian border, although the highlands continue far to the west and in parts to the south.

If some parts of Ethiopia have a good harvest can food be transferred to areas of drought?

In fact this is done by a number of agencies. They buy food from surplus areas for distribution in areas facing a shortage. However help is still needed to do this. The food is bought from poor farmers (through market networks) who need to receive payment. The Ethiopian government can not underwrite these costs so foreign support is needed – hence the appeals that are made by the World Food Programme and others.

Should I still come and visit Ethiopia?

YES! You will have a wonderful trip in the north, and you will be spending your money with local Ethiopians, supporting them and their families. Your trip is important to the country’s economy and to the well-being of the communities with whom you spend your time. You will not be faced with images of famine and drought, but in fact of a thriving rural economy in highland Ethiopia.

I hope this helps put the tragic news of suffering in perspective. It is not meant to belittle the problems in the south and east of Ethiopia, but to help people understand the size and complexity of Ethiopia, and to realise that coming here will be a positive move for the visitor and the host.

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Community sites opening

Tesfa are opening new community sites in Tigray and Wollo near Lalibela. (May 2011)

DSCN9219.JPGIn Tigray, near Adigrat, three new sites are opening that will allow guest to trek north from the existing sites to a place called Amba Fekada. At Amba Fekada there are the ruins of an old temple that goes back to Axumite or even pre-Axumite times. There is also a rock panting – that although small and simple is interesting in that it shows oxen ploughing a field.DSCN9240.JPG

These oxen have no humps – which dates the painting to the early Axumite period.

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Also in Wollo, in Gidan Woreda, there is a new community keen to start serving guests at a beautiful remote site called Kurtain Washa.

To all of you who have seen beautifully located sites – be ready to be knocked sideways. This place is magical, but it is set in high and rugged landscape.

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