Travel information on Security & Safety for visitors in Ethiopia

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The Great Lenten Fast in Ethiopia

Fried Fish - Telapia

Fried Fish – Telapia

As many will know the big fasting season in Ethiopia started this week on Monday. Fasting is appears in many religions around the world. But in the west its has lost its rigour for most people. However in the Ethiopian Orthodox church there are many fasting days through the year. In fact a strict observer of all fasts would be vegan for half the year. The longest of the fasts is Hudadi or the Abiy Tsom, as the lenten fast leading up to Easter is variously known, and the majority of followers of the Orthodox church fast these 55 days every year.

Why is it 55 days when in the western church it is 40 days?  There are specific reasons for the addition of 2 weeks to the 40 day fast that many of which people are not aware.

Medieval painting of King Eraclia

The first week of Hudadi is known as the fast of Eraclius, a Byzantine Emperor who lived in 614 A.D. During his reign the Persians invaded Jerusalem and took the Cross of the Lord. Eraclius made an expedition to Persia and having defeated the Persians he took the Cross back to Jerusalem. The Christians in Jerusalem who were very happy because of Eraclius’s victory and the return of the Cross, dedicated the first week before Lent to be the fast of Eraclius and included it in their canons. The last week of Lent is Passion Week which remembers the Apostles who fasted in commemoration of Christ’s Passion.

To the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, Hudadi is a period of fasting when the faithful undergo a rigorous schedule of prayers and penitence. This fast is observed with greater rigour than any other fast and it is a test of one’s spiritual strength and resolve. Properly observed it is believed to nullify sins committed during the rest of the year.

The fast if strictly followed, is applicable to all persons older than 13 years of age
involves abstinence from:

  • meat, dairy products and eggs (and many will abstain from fish too);
  • instead, cereals and vegetables will be consumed;
  • only one meal (vegan) a day is eaten, taken in the evening or after 3:00pm (when church services end). Before that no food, drink nor even water is to be consumed;
  • starting on Good Friday to Easter Sunday (i.e. late on Saturday night), there is total abstinence nothing taken maybe eaten nor drunk.
  • on other Saturdays and Sundays during Lent, eating breakfast is allowed;
  • Daily Services are conducted in all churches from morning to 2:45pm;
  • Priests regularly attend night services starting at midnight up to 7am.

(More details can be seen here)

Fasting selection  ‘ye tsom bayenetu’ 

 

For the visitor to Ethiopia a wonderful array of fasting foods is served up on enjara – just ask for: – ‘ye tsom bayenetu’. You may also get a wonderful fried fish (probably Tilapia) ‘asseh‘.  Enjoy!

Tesfa Tours will happily recommend good fasting restaurants in Addis, and take you there as part of a city tour.

This is also a great time to travel around the country if you are vegetarian, as there will always be a veggie option. Out of the big cities vegetables maybe a bit limited, but the staples of shiro (a ground chickpea sauce) and lentil (misser). But immediately following Easter even Wednesday and Friday fasting is put to the side as many people eat meat whenever they can.

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Support for the Tesfa guesthouses in North Wollo / Recovery in Tigray

Community guesthouse at Boya, some damage

Community guesthouse at Boya, some damage

Dear friends

It has been a long time since I wrote last. In the meantime tourism has really begun to get going, and thankfully the peace in Tigray has taken root.

The peace treaty that was signed on 2nd of November in Pretoria, South Africa, has been implemented gradually over the last few months. The result is that military forces from Eritrea and Amhara region have withdrawn to border areas, Federal forces have returned to camp, Tigrayan forces have handed their heavy weapons to Federal forces and a large number seem to have been demobilised. Supplies have been getting through by road to the region, flight services to Mekele and Shire have been expanded, telecom and banking is being gradually restored across the Region.

View Enaf Community Guesthouse - Tigray

View from Enaf Community Guesthouse Tigray – as it was before the conflict

Life has been extremely hard for people living in Tigray but at least with the fighting ended it has improved. There is limited economic opportunity for people living there and it is still hard for people to make any living.  I am planning to go to visit our community guesthouses in Tigray, as soon as I can get a return flight in, to meet with the people there and our guides in the nearby towns, as well as see what remains of the structures and materials. After the trip I will see how much needs doing and start looking to find ways to support the repair work in Tigray.

In the meantime we are trying to repair the guesthouses in the area around Lalibela that got damaged in the fighting. We have started with a guesthouse at Boya -next to a lovely old church called Boya Mikael. The TPLF used this site for a camp for a time during the conflict and they took off the thatched grass from the roofs. Some doors and windows also were taken although the community managed to hide a lot of materials in the local church.  They have now repaired the roofs on their own, but still need help with doors, windows and some other materials for hosting guests.

In discussion with Taga Mariam community

A wonderful local NGO called Citizen to Citizen (Zegoch le Zegoch – ZlZ) has been working in areas where the conflict has caused damage and hardship for local communities providing seed money to help get them back and working. They meet with communities and get them to make a proposal – including what they will contribute in return for the grant. At Boya they have agreed to provide 130,000 birr (around $2,450 USD or £2,050 GBP). Tesfa Tours needs to raise this money for ZlZ in order that they can go on and fund other Tesfa communities that have similar problems with damage to guesthouses and lunch stops.

ZlZ (website under development is here) have really helped local people recover from the conflict (see the case studies on the site). They also have an Ethiopian Bank Account that can receive transfers from abroad – details of which I can share too. For more details please contact me on What’sApp – +251 921602236 or email-  mark@tesfatours.com.

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Ras Dashen – Ethiopia’s highest mountain – is open

Ras Dashen Peak © AWF Abezash Tamerat 2017

While the core area of the Simien Mountain National Park has been open for visitors for the last year now, Ras Dashen and Eastern edge of the park was closed. It is now open again and for those keen to climb Ethiopia’s highest mountain (variously measured at 4,533m and 4,543m and some times known as Ras Dejen) we can now organise treks in the park to include this peak. We can also include several of the other high peaks – including Kidus Yared 4,453 and its ridge that runs to Abba Yared (4,409)  and Silki (4,420).

A Walia Ibex beside Ginat Lobelia, from the slopes of Mnt Buahit looking across Chenek

We will also climb Buahit to the west at 4,430m.

The Simien Mountains is the best place to see Gelada Baboons up close, and the only place to see the Walia Ibex.

Gelada baboons, staring back…

You also have a good chance to see the Ethiopian Wolf and many birds of prey including the Lammergeyer.

So why not ask Tesfa Tours to put a trip together in this remarkable landscape – a world heritage site?

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Smoke in the City

Smoke in Addis - Hedar Mikael

Smoke in Addis – Hedar Mikael

Melkam Mikael – today is a special St. Michaels Day – Hedar Mikael, and today in Addis, looking out to the invisible mountains – shrouded in a smoke from thousands of bonfires you might have thought you were in Lahore or Delhi. Today is the day when householders burn their compound rubbish and with the smoke it is believed that disease and sickness is taken away.

This also marks the harvest time. Across much of the highlands grass is cut in meadows and the harvest of the wheat, barley and teff will be well underway. There are also a number of festivals in different churches: Hanna Mariam was yesterday, and the very important Tsion Mariam comes in just over a weeks

Fasting selection with Ethiopian beer

time.

With harvesting going on in the country this is a wonderful time to visit Ethiopia, and see the countryside. Why not book up a trek staying at the Tesfa community owned guesthouses?

A major fasting season will start this week on Thursday – the Advent fast – Gena Tsom, which will last for 44 days until Ethiopian Christmas on 7 January. Great news for those who love the fasting (vegan food).

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Salam Ethiopia -ሰላም

Yesterday evening (Wed 2 Nov), after two years of conflict and 10 days of peace talks, the Federal Government of Ethiopia and the TPLF agreed on a “permanent cessation of hostilities”, and a raft of measures which include an agreement to demobilise Tigrayan forces and bring food and essential services to the people of Tigray.  There is a lot still to be ironed out, and implementation and monitoring to be agreed, but silencing of the guns was the crucial first step.

We all wish for peace – Selam/ሰላም – for Ethiopia.

 

In other news the Ethiopian Public Health Institute (EPHI) issued a new COVID directive on Friday which effectively ends almost all Covid 19 measures in the country, just leaving an obligation to test if symptomatic and to wear a mask or isolate. It still encourages people in critical service areas to get vaccinated, but no obligation.

For those flying into Ethiopia there is now no requirement show either vaccination certificate or test result. Ethiopian Airlines website has the details for travelers. [click on ‘Ethiopia Entry Requirement’- top right in the info box]

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Melkam Addis Amet / Happy New Year

Waterfall in North Shoa on the Ride the Rift trip

Waterfall in North Shoa on the Ride the Rift trip

ለአዲሱ ዓመት እንኳን በሰላም አደረሳችሁ።

Yesterday (Sunday 11 Sep) Ethiopia entered into 2015. The Kremt – rainy season is still drenching the capital and much of the north of the country with its monsoon rains. Much of the highlands is is now green, rivers are running in torrents, with waterfalls impressive everywhere, and the ubiquitous yellow Meskal Daisy adding a splash of yellow to the landscape. Over the coming weeks the rains should begin to peter out and by early October, Ethiopian skies should be blue, and sunshine will turn the emerald fields of crops to gold as harvest time approaches in November. This is the time to travel in Ethiopia!

We at Tesfa Tours wish all our friends, clients, partners, team members, and all Ethiopians. everywhere a healthy, happy and peaceful 2015.

By the way you can follow the dates and holidays in 2015 with the Tesfa calendar or diary/agenda – out now

and remember our Ride the Rift Meskal trip to the green Gurage highlands is approaching. Sign up soon.

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Tesfa Diary / Agenda – Your Ethiopian companion in a bag!

I am very excited by this year’s diary/agenda. It will fit in your bag, so you can carry it around with you and write notes or appointments on the day pages. At the same time you can see more about that week- which saints days, when the fasting starts or ends, what holidays are coming up and so much more.  It also translates dates for you so 5/13/2014 -is 10th September 2022! And that is Pagume – the 13th month. And its a full moon that night! So much to find out!

Photos in the agenda are from across the country – there are Blue breasted bee-eaters (truly stunning) and Geladas, there are

Map of the community guesthouses comes at the start of the Agenda

festivals and harvesting, and the agenda is full of faces – smiling from the pages. Pictures that will give you a lift or inspire you to get out of the city!

As with the calendar it runs from September 2022 (NOW) to August 2023 ….. and at 500 birr its a bargain … and as with the calendar it is printed here in Ethiopia on recycled paper !!!

Copies available at our Kebena Office, and certain locations around town. Email calendars@tesfatours.com for more info.

 

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Tesfa Calendars ready

Its a labour of love: producing these calendars that are a synthesis of the Ethiopian Calendar with its 13 months starting on 11th September, and the western calendar with its 12 months. Woven into this are a multitude of Saints Days and cultural holidays, other special days in the Orthodox church including fasting periods, as well as the main Islamic holidays and some curiosities. I have even added the full moon dates. It has allowed me to learn a lot about the unique and intriguing Ethiopian Orthodox church .

Printed on recycled paper, hang it up in your office or kitchen. Use it to plan trips, learn when your neighbourhood church celebrates its annual day, or just covert Ethiopian dates to western ones. This is an essential key to life in Ethiopia.

At the same time the photographs show case the community guesthouses and treks that Tesfa have set up with local communities around the country. Proceeds go to support these communities. Copies are available for 400 birr from the Tesfa Tours Office at Kebena and several places in town.  The Agenda version will be out later this week.  Email calendars@tesfatours.com for more information

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Lalibela & Gondar get the green light  in UK Travel Advice

UK travel advise for Ethiopia

UK travel advise for Ethiopia

The UK government have changed the travel advise for Ethiopia’s key tourist sites – Lalibela and Gondar – home to stunning rock hewn churches, and romantic castles. The UK had been advising against travel to these places and to the roads that connect them but this negative advise has now been lifted. 

Along with Bahir Dar and Lake Tana this now means much of the northern historical circuit is in the UK’s ‘green zone’.

Giyorgis church in Lalibela

What does this mean for you? If you are travelling in these areas, your normal travel insurance will cover you. 

We have been arguing for months that the Travel Advice should be relaxed. As I mentioned in previous posts I have visited Lalibela 3 times since January and  felt completely safe and welcome each time. I also visited Gondar once (going on to the Simien Mountains) and also felt safe throughout my visit. This change in travel advice reinforces this view.

We are also really happy that this change means that the community tourism guesthouses in Meket and along the roads that approach Lalibela from the south are now also out of the red. We look forward to more trekkers enjoying this marvelous scenery as hosts of the local farmers.

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Kremt Season – The Ethiopian Monsoon

Rain storm approaches in mountains of Tigray

Rain storm approaches in mountains of Tigray

When is the Kremt?

The Ethiopian highlands get drenched each year from late June through September. In Addis the rains are heavy and start early and end late finally finishing at the start of October. But by mid to late September the rain becomes noticeably lighter and less frequent. Further north they might not kick in till mid July and tend to fizzle out a bit earlier in September.

Visiting Ethiopia during the Kremt

People ask about visiting Ethiopia during this Kremt season. For people living in Addis Ababa, looking for an escape from the cold and wet weather the best advice is to go to somewhere lower in

Kremt Rain Addis

Kremt rains in Addis  

altitude. Take a break from Addis by visiting Bahir Dar or Arba Minch. Or just head into the Rift Valley, as even the 50km drive to Bishoftu gives you a change in climate. Yes it’s still rains, but the rain storms are shorter lived with more blue sky between, and temperatures are a good deal higher than in Addis.

If the Kremt is your time to visit Ethiopia, don’t worry most places are still good to visit. You just need to be prepared that a rainstorm might track through and you will be sitting in a cafe, chatting to people waiting for the weather to clear. So don’t try to pack too much into one day but give yourself a little bit of extra time. And of course do pack the right clothes (it will be cooler and rain jackets are  needed – and maybe an umbrella!).  Of course the high mountains with moorland at around 4,000 meters altitude are perhaps not the best places to go. Particularly in the

Blue Nile Falls

Blue Nile Falls

Simien mountains where you could be in cloud and driving rain for very long periods of time. But it may still be worth spending a night at the lodge for the probability of clear skies early in the morning and amazing views. Some of our community treks are not advisable at this time and we close at a number of guest houses. However Lalibela, Gondar and Bahir Dar are well worth visiting at this time. Indeed by August the Blue Nile Falls – locally known as Tissisat are really pumping. Harar to the east, and many places in the south are also great to see in the rainy season. In fact in the far southwest, in the

Meket Shepherd boy with whip

Meket Shepherd boy with whip

Omo Valley July and August are not even rainy season.

Festivals in the Kremt 

There are also some key festivals to look out for in August. The Buhe/Ashenda festival time comes in late August. Buhe is celebrated in Addis on 19 August with the Debre Tabor holiday marking Jesus’ Transfiguration. Special bread is baked, and there is singing and dancing around campfires. A few days later, Ashenda is celebrated as the two week long Filsetta Fast ends. This is mostly a women’s day where they dress up often with skirts of grass and dance and sing, but in some areas such as around Lalibela and Meket, boys will have a contest to see who can make the loudest whip crack.

What is the Kremt?

Trading routes used by dhows in the Indian Ocean and the monsoon

Trading routes used by dhows and the monsoon

So is the Kremt season really a monsoon? Technically yes, this rain is driven by the same global patterns that drive India’s monsoon. There is a kind of climatic equator where the Southern and Northern Hemisphere’s meet called the Inter-

Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) . This was the phenomenon that causes the doldrums sailors used to fear. In July-September this band moves north, far north into Asia and it also moves north of the Horn of Africa. Behind it it pulls up winds that blow broadly north from the Indian Ocean, and these moisture ladened winds soak the Ethiopian highlands with life giving rains.

This monsoon even has an effect on Oman’s east coast with the Dhofar mountains getting a good soaking in the same period, before returning to the usual dry arid climate. Along Africa’s east coast trading Dhows used this shift in winds to sail north the July-Sept and as the ITCZ shifts south from October, so the winds would switch allowing sailors to take their shows as far south as Madagascar. Zanzibar was off course a key port and trading centre in this international traffic, with its fabled spices. It was in fact part of the Sultanate of Oman.

The Kremt and the Origin of Ethiopia’s Calendar

Nile flood waters at Giza

Nile flood waters at Giza

Ethiopia’s Kremt rains have also had a huge effect on Egypt. Ancient Egyptians relied upon the Nile’s floodwaters to reinvigorate the lands beside the Nile and so allow them to plant a crop as the floodwaters receded. For them the flood was a renewal. The ancient Egyptian New Year started when the Nile began to flood. And it is no surprise that this flood was due to the deluge in the highlands of Ethiopia, most of the water from which makes its way into the Nile basin. And in an ironic exchange Ethiopia has taken the basic timeframe of the Egyptian calendar for itself. The Ethiopian New Year which is currently on the 11th of September each year is derived from the ancient Egyptian New Year. Over the many thousands of years the date has slipped back from mid August when the flooding starts.

So whether you live in Ethiopia and are wondering if you have to endure endless weeks of rain in Addis, or you are considering to visit Ethiopia and are wondering if the rainy season is an OK time to see this marvellous country, please talk to us as Tesfa Tours and we can ensure you see some blue skies, get some sunshine and experience the best of Ethiopia.

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