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Wake up in the Agame mountains – Tigray

Panoramic View from Gohgot guesthouse at sunrise

Panoramic View from Gohgot Village guesthouse in Tigray at sunrise

How about waking up to see the Agame mountains in Tigray lit up with the early morning sun?

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The Tesfa Calendar for 2008 is now ready.

2008 Tesfa Calendar

2008 Tesfa Calendar

As this year starts out with a leap day in the Ethiopian Calendar, up until March all dates are one day later (for example New Year is on September 12th).

For those that have not had it before it is a must for anyone living or working here.

1/ Ethiopian dates are clearly markers in red along side the western dates. With this you will clearly know which western date is given on a receipts or other notice with an Ethiopian calendar date!

2/ The major Saints days are there too – so now you will know when to avoid the Medhane Alem area because it will be crowded, and why so many people are congregating in white gabis around a church area.

October page of 2008 Calendar

October page of 2008 Calendar

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4/ Know in advance the Ethiopian holidays and the fasts – when they start and end

5/ Read the commentary on the bottom of each month and understand a little more about why, what , when etc.

6/ Enjoy the fabulous photographs – all taken from community tourism treks in Wollo and Tigray – The photos in Tigray are from Tash McCarroll (to see more see her on Facebook (www.facebook.com/TashMcCarrollPhotoPhilanthropy?)

7/ Support the community tourism development with your contribution. We still suggesting 200 ETB per calendar this year.

Pop by our office at Kebena or contact us to get your copy! Email Calendars@tesfatours.com

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The rainy season in Addis

Rain in Tigray“A veritable monsoon!” Is how I often describe it, and it is. Its cause is the same weather patterns that cause the monsoon to sweep up through India – monsoon is the Indian word for their rainy season and kremt is the Amharic word.

And rather like the monsoon in India it does not rain all day, but rather heavy downpours roll through, skies darken, the wind picks up and torrential rain, often with hail follows. Later on or next morning the skies are clear and the sun shines brightly for some hours.  Its not a bad time to be in Addis or in Ethiopia. Pack an umbrella, put on the some boots, and head off to explore. If your visiting, just be ready to dive into a coffee shop and sit out the rain.

This year in Addis the Kremt is giving us a lot of sun and glorious weather, with much of the rain in the night. This is worrying, as the rain that comes to Addis is far more than the rain that goes to many other regions of Ethiopia, all of which depend on the Kremt to start off their crops, allow the meadows to grow hay, refill the water table so springs are replenished, refill reservoirs to generate electricity. If the rains intensify now that would be good, and they need to be strong through into late September. The official date for the end of the Kremt is Meskerem 25th which this year falls on 6th October, but already by the Meskal holiday (Meskerem 17 or 28th September) the rains will usually become far less frequent and the signs will be there that the dry season is coming.
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A reminder for anyone looking to do some trekking. Tigray is fantastic for walking at this time of year. It does not rain much there, mostly at night, and the sun will be out in the morning. Let us know if you would like to make a trek and we can organise it.

 

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Tesfa’s new calendar coming of the printing press

Beautfiul girl on cover of Tesfa Calendar, Photo by Tash McCarroll

The Cover of Tesfa Calendar, Photo by Tash McCarroll

The new calendar which starts on 1st September 2015 and runs till August 2016, is just being finalised. Copies should be available from Monday 17th August.For those that have not seen this before, it combines the western and Ethiopian calendars, showing both sets of dates and the main saints days, fasts and festivals.

It is a must have for foreigners living in Ethiopia and a vital tools for anyone planning trips, reconciling documents with Ethiopian dates on, understanding the saints days etc.

The pages for each month - showing all the holidays and both dates

The pages for each month – showing all the holidays and both dates


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It is also illustrated with beautiful photographs from the Tesfa community treks in Wollo and Tigray. Many of the photos of Tigray this year are taken by Tash McCarroll.

We are asking for 200 birr per Calendar, proceeds will go to support the community tourism and the communities themselves. We  can post them abroad and will need to charge for the postage.

If you would like a calendar please email us on calendars@tesfatours.com.

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Stunning photos and wonderful blog – Trek in Tigray

Tash McCarroll photo - Cloud gathering around the mountains near Erar

Tash McCarroll photo – Cloud gathering around the mountains near Erar

A few friends and I spent a four day weekend at the end of May trekking in Tigray organised by Tesfa Tours. It was a few days that felt like weeks away from the bustle of Addis and work and we were treated to hiking in some of the most stunning landscape I have ever seen.” Tash McCarroll. Read this account of a trek in Tigray, illustrated with some of the most fabulous photos. (You will see some in the up coming Tesfa Calendar)

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Curtesy of Tash McCarroll, portrait of a girl in Shimbrety.

Curtesy of Tash McCarroll, portrait of a girl in Shimbrety.

Curtesy of Tash McCarroll, Low cloud around Erar, on a Tesfa Trek

Curtesy of Tash McCarroll, Low cloud around Erar, on a Tesfa Trek

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Escape the rain: take a break in Tigray – with local flights $645 p/person

Rainbow comes out over the mountains in Tigray

Rainbow comes out over the mountains in Tigray

The Kremt rains (as the season is called) officially begins on Senay 26 ( 3rd July) according to the old church calendar and runs till Meskerem 25 (this year that will be 6th October). For those new to Addis it does not rain all day every day, but by mid August it will begin to feel like it has! For those hankering for a bit of sun, it does not rain all over the country, and certainly other parts of Ethiopia are not as wet as Addis. The Rift valley gets more frequent showers and some sweeping rain, but when the sun comes out its a good deal warmer, but up north in Tigray it stays bright.  Most mornings dawn with a blue sky and cloud does not roll in till later on in the afternoon. With the sandy soil keeping the paths more dry, we keep the community treks open all through the Kremt.

Prickly Pear - the Beles fruit, from the Cactus

Prickly Pear – the Beles fruit, from the Cactus

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A 3 night trip, with 2 nights at the community guest houses and one night at Gheralta Lodge will cost $645 per person including local flights (with Ethiopian ID or resident card), and 4 WD transport. Excludes church entry. For full details see  Journey in the mountains of Tigray

 

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Michaelmas today in Ethiopia – Senay Michael

212_Archangel_Michael
Today is Senay Mikael in Ethiopia (Senay being the month), and is one of the three big St.Michael’s days. The saints’s days come round every month (Mikael on the 12th of each month), but each church celebrates one or two and occasionally three big ‘annual days’.  St.Michael’s big annual days are in Senay (now), Hedar (November) and Ter (January – this is the day after Timkat).
In the west Michaelmas was celebrated on 29th September and gave rise to the name of that autumn term in universities, and was one of the 4 days when quarterly rent payments were due.Things generally started a new at Michaelmas.
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In Ethiopia the Senay 12 also  marks the anniversary of the death of King and Saint Lalibela, and so in Lalibela itself today is very special as both Mikael and Lalibela’s tabots will be paraded out.

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The start of Ramadan and the first Muslims who came to Ethiopia

The Grand Anwar Mosque in Merkato, Addis Ababa

The Grand Anwar Mosque in Merkato, Addis Ababa

Today is the start of Ramadan, the great fasting month in the Muslim calendar. Muslims around the world will not eat or drink from sunrise to sunset for the lunar month. As the dates go with the lunar calendar they move through the western calendar year, actually the month moves forward a few weeks each year.

Coin from K.Amrah's reign

Coin from K.Amrah’s reign (Classical Numismatic Group, Inc. http://www.cngcoins.com)

In fact Islam has a long and special history in Ethiopia, with the first Muslims coming to Ethiopia in about 615AD to escape persecution in Mecca  during the reign of the Axumite King Armah (Ashama Ibn Abjar in Islamic tradition).

It is said that he heard them tell about their new religion and their beliefs and thought it so similar to his country’s Christian beliefs that he welcomed them and settled them in Negash in Tigray.  In this town, north of Wukro, there is still a mosque at the site of the original mosque in Ethiopia.

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This was the start of a long and durable interwoven history of Muslims and Christians in northern Ethiopia. In the south Wollo area (a bit south of Tigray) Muslims and Christians have intermarried and the children have been able to choose their faith- whether to follow their mother or father. Indeed, in the main town of the area (Dessie) some years ago the fast at the end of Ramadan fell on Ethiopian Orthodox Christmas (7 January) and the town celebrated both festivals together.

Harar city in Ethiopia

Harar city in Ethiopia

For those wishing to see the Islamic side of Ethiopia, the best starting point is now the old walled city of Harar with its many mosques and narrow alleyways.

Ramadan Mubarek to all my Muslim friends who are fasting this month.

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Come and see the special Saintsday in Lalibela

Entrance to Mikael & Golgotta in Lalibela

Entrance to Mikael & Golgotta in Lalibela

On 19th June Lalibela celebrates a big double festival, as it is both an annual day for St Mikael (Senay Mikael) and the anniversary of the death of the Saint-King Lalibela. This is the biggest celebration in Lalibela after Gena (Christmas) and attracts many Ethiopian pilgrims from the surrounding area to see the festival … but few tourists.

On the eve of the day itself, there will be singing and chanting around Bete Mikael & Golgotta (where the Saint-King is buried), and in the morning the two Tabots (Mikael and Lalibela) will be paraded out to a nearby tent with great pomp and celebration, and an hour or so after will return to the church.

Later on you should see the market – although it is a Friday there will be an especially big market that day in town, full of livestock and other local produce.
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This is a day you should not miss!

Tesfa Tours are offering an all inclusive 4 day package for $700 USD per person (minimum group 2 people) including local flights (based on having local resident cards or national ID), transport, accommodation at the best hotel in town, entry fees & guides, AND two nights trekking in Meket with the local  communities as your hosts.  (Only excludes meals and drink in Lalibela, bottled drinks on the trek and personal expenses and gratuities etc). Please email mark@tesfatours.com for more details.

 

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The fast of the Apostles

For those who prefer the vegan fare, this week brings back the yesom bayenetu (mixed fasting food dish) -with its wonderful selection of tasty vegan dishes, often with a fried fish too. Following the long fast that led up to Easter, was a few months of no fasting, but with the Senay Tsom starting yesterday – as the Fast of the Apostles is called, comes back the regular Wednesday and Friday fasting that most Orthodox believers will follow (as the Senay Tsom is not strictly for all).

The Fast of the Apostles ends with the feast of Peter and Paul on 12 July, and it begins each year 8 days after Pentecost. Thus it’s start is tied to Easter and can move around. So this fast may be as short as 8 days or as long as 42 days. This year with the early Easter it is the maximum 42 days long!

By the time it finishes we will be well into the full Krempt rains – although judging by the last few weeks Addis Ababa wis already there!
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So enjoy the fasting food in the coming weeks, and keep your umbrella handy!

Fasting selection with Ethiopian beer

Fasting selection with Ethiopian beer

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