Travel information on Security & Safety for visitors in Ethiopia

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Photographs for the new calendar – 2013!

Calendars produced by Tesfa Tours

Tesfa Tours 2012 Calendars

Hi Trekking Folks

Are there any Tesfa trekkers out there with photos from their trips that we could use in our new calendar (Wollo, Tigray, Janamora or Wof Washa community treks)? As usual we are planning to produce a Tesfa calendar again for 2020/21 – Ethiopian year starting 2013 – despite the virus.  We will desperately need to encourage clients into the mountains once this cloud is lifted and people can start to travel.

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We love photos (in landscape format) that highlight the guesthouses, the landscapes, the communities and treks and the wildlife… if you think you might have some please do get in touch with me – mark@tesfatours.com

I am also producing an agenda – although that could be scaled down a bit this year – and so will need photos from elsewhere in Ethiopia – as there are some 55 photos (in portrait format) in the Agenda. For any photo included we will off course give a credit on the photo and a complimentary copy of the calendar will be sent to you!

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Melkam Hosanna / Palm Sunday

Palm Fonds are worn to commemorate Palm Sunday (Hosanna) – this one specially made for COVID19 emergency

Easter is now one week away in Ethiopia. Today is Palm Sunday or Hosanna in Ethiopia. It is usually one of the busiest days in the church calendar, but today – although some still went to church, Addis Ababa remained quiet. People did put palm fonds on their heads. Hosanna marks the start of the final week of Hudadi, commonly known as Holy Week, or the “Week of Pains” or in Ethiopia Himamat and it is the strictest part of Lent. During Himamat no absolution is given, and during this week the fast becomes yet more rigorous. For some strict worshippers, having broken the fast after mass on Thursday they will not eat any food nor drink even a drop of water until Easter morning. So they totally abstain for all of Good Friday (or Sekelet) and Saturday, breaking this

Eyesus Church very quiet on Palm Sunday

fast after the church service that goes through the night on Saturday, finishing at around 3am on Sunday morning. These three days are known as “Qanona”. The priests neither eat nor drink but remain in the churches singing and praying incessantly.
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Fruit and Veg store in Addis

This year Easter will not be a great celebration. Many will continue to fast seeking God’s intersession in these COVID19 times. However lockdown as in Europe is not possible. People live day to day from small businesses and there is no real safety net. People buy their bread at small bread shops, fruit and veg from stalls on the road side, small ‘supermarkets’ sell other food stuffs, corner shops sell pretty much all you need- pasta, rice, flour, eggs and much more.

Now handwash stations are outside shops and ropes keep people away from the counter or even outside – so that business is conducted in the street. The government has declared a state of emergency to tackle the virus and are making preparations: hospital beds, gathering PPE, asking retired medical staff to volunteer. Tesfa Tours, as with many businesses has been asked for and has provided  funds and a vehicle to help with the emergency.   We all pray that the measures are enough to stave off the worst of the virus.

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Coronavirus update from us

Handwashing stations in central Addis Ababa

I am absolutely sure all of our clients and supporters know full well about the Coronavirus that has swept through so many countries of the world. There are 11 confirmed cases of COVID-19 in Ethiopia (as of 26 March), however due to lack of testing it is widely accepted that there will be more than this.

We have taken the decision to ask staff to stay at home. A few staff will come to the office occasionally to process salaries and other critical payments, but all others will stay at home in an effort to protect them, their families and try to stop the spread of the virus. The staff of Tesfa Tours have voluntarily agreed to take 1 week unpaid leave per month, as there is no business in the near future. I have undertaken not to make any staff redundant at this point, and am also planning to pay the communities some money to help them keep the guards paid at the community guesthouses and to keep some income rolling in.

We have also agreed to close the community guesthouses even to local tourism as of 25 March (when our last client will return from his trek), as we do not want to spread the virus from Addis to the rural areas.

I will be checking my emails regularly and my senior staff will work from their phones, but with the uncertainty caused by the virus we can not accurately cost or plan trips in the coming months. Never the less we will still be here on the other side and the communities will need your support, so we encourage you to look at visiting the Ethiopian highlands once this is all over.

I will send out a few blogs to let you know how we are doing in Addis Ababa.

Please everyone –

  • Stay safe by taking proper precautions and thereby keeping those more vulnerable than you safe;
  • Remember we are in this together, and we must all come out on the other side more unified and together as a result of this pandemic;
  • Keep positive, and do not keep reading worst case scenarios – we need to keep a perspective here.

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We look forward to more positive news in the near future.

Mark, and the Tesfa Tours Team

 

 

 

 

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Fasting, Prayer sticks and the Battle of Adwa:- March in Ethiopia

Fasting selection with Ethiopian beer

For Orthodox Christians, March is the middle of the Lentan Fast. The Hudadi or the Abiy Tsom as it is known, started on Mon 24th February (Yekatit 16) and runs for 55 days through to 19th April – Ethiopian Easter (in fact across the Orthodox world) known in Ethiopia as Fasika.

The fast means followers observe a strict vegan diet. There is debate as to whether fish is allowed during fasting, and you will see it on many fasting menus. However all meat, dairy produce and eggs is avoided during the fasting time. Many people will also not eat or drink from when they get up until some time later in the day, maybe mid morning, but for the strict observers until mass has been said in the church in the afternoon which would be around 3pm or 4pm. The fast for many also means abstaining from drinking and dancing. In the church itself during fasting time the kebero drums are not played, but there is a slow beat taped out with prayer sticks and to the rattle of the sistrum, as out set by St Yared in the 6th century.

Abuna Gebre Menfes Kiddus

The most important saint’s day in March is for Abo – Abuna Gebre Menfes Kiddus – on 14th of March (Megabit 5). Abo is a saint that lived with wild animals and his churches often have really wild looking forests. On this day in Abo churches you will here the liturgical music created by St Yared without the Kebero.

There is a big public holiday on 2nd of March (Yekatit 23). This is Adwa Day, the day that Ethiopia commemorates the victory of the Ethiopian troops over the Italians at the battle of Adwa in 1896. This battle ended Italian colonial ambitions in Ethiopia, until Mussolini gave renewed energy to colonial aspirations in the 1930s.

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Painting depicting the Battle of Adwa

The story goes that the Italian commander General Oreste Baratieri, knew that the massive Ethiopian force was living off the land and was running critically low of supplies, but that political pressure from Rome and on the urgent advise of his commanders, in the early hours of the morning of 1st March he ordered his army forward in three divisions to engage the superior Ethiopian forces in battle. Anyone who has been to Adwa will know it is a mountainous area with many steep peaks. The Ethiopians had occupied the high ground and the Italian divisions got confused in the dark and separated. Each division was roundly beaten and by noon the remains of the Italian army was in retreat. 7,000 of the Italian army were killed, with others wounded and taken prisoner. Two brigadiers were killed and a third captured, and many rifles and all their artillery was captured. As such their fighting force was decimated. From the Ethiopian side some 4-5,000 were killed, but the fighting force remained intact.

However Menelik decided not to advance into Eritrea and totally annihilate the remains of the Italian army. Despite the Ethiopian army being intact, many solders had been on campaign for a long time, and the country was just recovering from a severe famine. Some believe that Menelik believed, perhaps rightly, that such a move would drive the Italian public to push for another campaign against Ethiopia. In point of fact the battle lead directly to the signing in October 1896 of the Treaty of Addis Ababa which ended the war between Italy and Ethiopia and in which the Italian’s recognised Ethiopia as an independent country.

The whole war came about because of the preceding treaty of Wuchale signed in 1899. Article 17 of the treaty in the Italian version stated that Ethiopia must conduct its dealings with foreign powers though Italy thus to be in effect a protectorate of Italy, but the Amharic version stated that Ethiopia could use the good offices of Italy in its foreign dealings. Now Menelik had achieved the goal of maintaining Ethiopian independence in an age in which colonial powers over-ran every other country in Africa (only Liberia was independently ruled). This left Ethiopia as the emblem and point of pride for other Africans dreaming of self governance. It is not a coincidence the the AU, formerly the Organisation of African Unity, has its home in Addis Ababa today.

The battle will be commemorated at Adwa Dildi, a bridge below the Feresenya Condominiums (Signal). It is a public holiday across the country (and our office is closed!)

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Join the Exciting Solar Eclipse Tour – this June in Ethiopia

A ‘ring of fire’ – how a solar eclipse looks

Witness a ring of fire in the sky over Ethiopia’s Jerusalem

 

“It’s not like night. It’s not like day. It’s not like twilight. It’s like nothing you’ve ever felt before.”

— Rhonda Coleman having witnessed the Great American Eclipse in Aug 2017

There will be a full Annular Solar Eclipse – that is ‘the moon moves in front of the sun and the world goes dark ‘ in Lalibela on the morning of 21 June this year. Nasa’s plotting of the eclipse shows that it will pass directly over Lalibela giving people over 1 minute of full eclipse where the moon almost totally blocks out the

View from Mequat Mariam Guesthouse

sun leaving a tiny ring of fire visible, or possibly what the experts call Baileys beads. This climatic moment will be at 8am, although the eclipse will start at about 7am. [This is subject to clear sky where the sun rises, but experts such as eclipsophile.com conclude that is likely to be the case].

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Tabots & incense at Senay Mikael festival

with a very special Saints’ Day when tabots are paraded out of the churches and the priests perform special dances and chants while incense spreads its blessing to all. Two mornings later you will witness this ring of fire in the sky above the sacred churches of Lalibela – built as Africa’s Jerusalem. The ancient landscape will darken for over 1 minute before it emerges out of the moons shadow again.

This will be a very special week – one you will never forget.  There are only a limited number of places on this trip – maximum is 6 people. Per person the price is $1,495. This includes local flights, transport, accommodation, guides and entry fees. You will pay your own lunch and dinner in Addis, Gondar and Lalibela, drinks and tips. We have arranged a champagne breakfast at Ben Abeba to celebrate the eclipse and we will have a celebratory dinner in Addis on the last night.

The trip begins in Addis on Saturday 13 June in the morning with us meeting you at Bole Airport, and it will end on Sun 21st June with us dropping you at the airport in Addis.

For more details see our tour page for this trip by clicking here. Or email us your details. We can also design a custom trip for you.

 

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Come to Lalibela to see a Ring of Fire in the sky.

A Ring of Fire in the sky above Africa’s Jerusalem, and Holy relics paraded from the churches. 

Ring of Fire – an Annular Solar Eclipse

Two special events this June in Lalibela: on Sunday 21st June,  you can witness a rare celestial phenomena, when the sun is eclipsed by the moon. It will be an ‘annular’  eclipse  so a ring of light or beads of light will become visible. While this event will begin in central Africa, and carry on to the middle east, experts believe Lalibela maybe one of the best places to observe this.

 

Icons & Tabots paraded under brocaded umbrellas

 

A few days before the eclipse, on Friday 19th June, you can celebrate the second biggest Saint’s Day in this Holy City: Senay Mikael  (The June St Michael’s Day) which is the annual saints day for Bete Mikael. It is also the anniversary of the death of the Saint King Lalibela who died on 19th June in 1221 ( 799 years ago) who is buried in the church behind Beta Mikael – known as Golgotta.
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Woman kisses the cross of a Monk

After a night of praying on the evening before, early in the morning sacred Tabots  (the holy of holy in the church sacred replicas of the Tablets of Stone) will come out for the churches with brocaded umbrellas and singing and dancing.

Why not come to Lalibela for these momentous days. Fly in on Thursday lunchtime and fly back out on Sunday afternoon.

Tesfa Tours has developed special packages to enjoy these two special occasions. Included in the package is transport, hotel, guide, entry fees and special viewing glasses to protect your eyes. We can also offer a fully inclusive package with all meals and a special Champagne breakfast for viewing of the eclipse.

The Eclipse will start 6:50 am, with the full eclipse at around 8am. It will finish by about 9:15am.  After the eclipse you can relax and ponder on what you have just witnessed. Your flight back will leave at 1:10 pm – so we will provide transport to the airport at 11:30am

Contact Tesfa Tours for more details.  eclipse@tesfatours.com

 

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Trekking to Lalibela, Redzi follows her mother’s footsteps.

Great article describing Redzi’s trek with us from Weldiya to Lalibela last Year.
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Melkam Gena

Gena ceremony in Lalibela

Today – 7th January – it is Christmas (known as Gena) in Ethiopia, and indeed across the Orthodox world. For Ethiopians it is the culmination of a 44 day long Advent fast (the second longest fast after the Lenten Fast that runs for 55 days up to Easter). But in Lalibela Gena will be celebrated tomorrow on 8th January – for this year (2012) is a leap year or a Markos year. In fact the additional day came at the end of 2011 (Ethiopian Year) – Pagumay had 6 days -one extra day, and so the new Ethiopian Year began on September 12. This means that MOST dates get put back a day in the western calendar so Kulubi Gabriel – (Tahsas 19) usually falls on 28th December – but in a this year it was on

Bale Wold church in Addis, crowds gather to see the Tabot (Tahsas 29)


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29th December. However Gena does not move date – except in Lalibela. The western and Ethiopian dates re-sync with the western leap day at the end of February (2020). Why?

Well in the Ethiopian calendar and in Christian tradition Mary became pregnant on a specific day (before the leap day) and she was pregnant for a specific number of days… so Christmas – the birth of Christ must be on the a day earlier in the Ethiopian calendar. So today is Tahsas 28 – not 29. Yet Tahsas 29 is the monthly celebration of the birth of Christ…

Anyway -when ever you celebrate it – Melkam Gena!

 

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Melkam Hedar Mikael

WFB0SogkRcCeYetEnKvhrQThis morning this there is a pall of smoke over Addis Ababa.

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It is Hedar 11 – (Nov 22) one of the big St Michael’s days in the calendar. Today traditionally rubbish is burnt in peoples’ compounds and the smoke takes disease and bad spirits away.   

There will be big crowds at Mikael churches across the country, so unless you want to go and se what is happening at the church better take a different road!

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Wild wheelchairs into the Simiens / the ascent of Ras Dashen

Emebet greets disabled man in local village

Emebet greets disabled man in local village – the villagers followed her on her hand cycle chanting her name.

After 9 nights camping we ended our trip at the lovely Limalimo lodge on the green western edge of the Simien Park. The expedition’s key objective was getting Alex and Emebet to the

Alex & Emebet contemplate the peak of Ras Dashen

Alex & Emebet contemplate the peak of Ras Dashen

top of Ethiopia’s highest mountain -Ras Dashen (or Ras Dejen as it is locally known)- at 4,533 meters. Alex Lewis, a quadruple amputee who lost his limbs and a part of his face to a bacterial infection 6 years ago, can power it with his prosthetic arms.  Emebet Ale Dires, a young woman from Bahir Dar who had her legs amputated as a 3 year old following a road accident, powers the hand-cycle with her own arms.

Ras Dashen was no easy feat: the peak lies way to the east of the stunning Simien Mountain

National Park. This was a journey where we pitted the engineering wizardry of Southampton university who came up with a hand-cycle / buggy that was able to traverse the rough roads in the Simiens to be ridden by Alex and Emebet in turns.  This hand-cycle was tested to it’s limits and beyond, through muddy water pools about 30cm deep, being carried across mountain rivers knee deep in swirling water, through sticky mud that clung to its tires, driving on uneven rocky roads, up and down steep hills.  But in the end the icy cold and the altitude impaired the power from the batteries, so as we went on it became increasingly hard to get it up the steep hills.

On the push up the highest mountains the hand-cycle had to be towed by the Landrover. But that said it made it with Emebet or Alex to a point below Ras Dashen where a river had cut through the road.   It was at this point that we faced a decision. We could turn this into a mission to fix the road and remove all obstacles with Alex and Emebet as on lookers or we could find another way to the summit that required putting the hand-cycle in the truck for long stretches. All of us agreed and especially Alex and Emebet, that this was the best way forward.

Alex riding Artemis along one of the good roads in the Besho Valley

So with a few more great rides of the hand-cycle on the asphalt road that followed the stunning Besho Valley, but longer stretches with the hand-cycle in the truck we got the team to the afro-alpine meadow beside the rough road below the peak of Ras Dashen. But there is a 3km stretch of steep rock strewn uneven ground, with no way to get a wheeled machine over it. Yet Alex with no legs and arms, and Emebet without legs, had to cross this. Then they had to ascend the steeper slopes to the final craggy peak which itself needed scaling. Although the peak is not a technical climb – I myself need my hands and feet to scale the craggy top.

Having spent six days getting to this point beneath the peak we had become fused into a team. As well as Alex and Emebet, we had an engineering team from

Handcycle attracts crowd in Besho Valley. Each encounter was a chnce to show people that disability is not inability

Southampton University – Dave & Tom. Athletic and outdoors orientated with their engineering background they could find solutions to the many technical issues that came up. We had Dr. Geoff who had saved Alex’s life 6 years before, who thought through many of the challenges we faced with a clarity and logic, and kept us all under his watchful medical gaze. Alex’s helper: Leandra who cared for everyone and kept us all laughing. The ever smiling Behailu who was on hand to translate for and help Emebet. David – our leader who along with

Emebet followed by kids chanting her name

Alex dreamt up this madcap adventure, and who funded much of the hand-cycle  development, as well as the expedition itself. He was always on hand to make calm decisions and ensure we stayed safe.  Simon – photographer and film director, a gentle calm influence, with an eye for a beautiful picture (although his ‘2 second’ stop was always 15 minutes). Ivan, an affable creative spirit with a desire to connect to the culture and the people, and me – Mark, I run a Tesfa Tours, and have scrambled up most of the corners in the Simiens inside and outside the park, my job was to put the logistics in place.

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Simien National park was stunning as the expedition passed, with Red hot poker flowers out

We also had a fantastic Ethiopian team caring for us: our guide Joshua always managing the team and keeping everyone focused and negotiating down the ridiculous demands put before us. The park expert Lakew (who was really another guide and helped with everything no matter how tough). Our cook Abijo who has been with me on many expeditions along with his support team and our 2 scouts who braved freezing weather to watch over us and ensure our safety. Our two Tesfa Tours drivers Ydne & Abel who in addition to driving with care and skill played their part in the team keeping us going. And finally Babbi, our Isuzu truck driver who was able to get the truck across the most improbable terrain, always with a smile and always helpful.

It was this Anglo/Ethiopian team that pulled together to get Emebet and Alex across the steep rough ground and then up the cliff to the very peak.

Alex & wheelchair carried to the base of the craggy peak of Ras Dashen

The night before after our recce, Dave and Tom rigged up a sedan chair with Alex’s wheelchair using steel poles and gorilla tape. Sunday dawned freezing cold with frost on our tents and an icy wind blowing. We assigned teams of 4 to carry ‘Sedan chair’ back first with Alex perched precariously sitting into the back gripping the handles with his prosthetic arms to avoid being jolted out.

Emebet crossed the rocky terrain on her hands

Meanwhile Emebet just powered across the rough terrain with her arms. When the going got too steep with protruding rocks Alex preferred to clamber over the rocky path using his stumps and prosthetics. All of this was done at close to 4,500 m. We had to have a cut off time of 11:30 – if we didn’t reach the base of the cliff by then we would have no choice to turn back. We wouldn’t have the time to climb, come down and get Alex and Emebet back to camp before dark. With the huge effort and enthusiasm from our whole team we got there by 10:30 after 3 hours of hard work. While us Brits carrying the chair would go 10-15 meters before putting the chair down for a rest, our Ethiopian team members would do more than 20 meters. Ethiopia definitely came out of this with the glory.

Alex hauled up the last 30 meters of Ras Dashen

Once at the rock-face the climbing skills of the team became apparent. Tom, an outdoors enthusiast from Wales had done refresher courses for this trip, while both Geoff and Dave were experienced climbers. David & Alex had also taken some training to get Alex up safely. He was harnessed with two separate ropes going up to the top. But as these things go, it wasn’t so simple on the mountain itself, the two ropes that had been set to haul Alex up had too much friction over the overhangs. In the end yoga mats came to the rescue between the ropes and the overhang and Alex was hauled up meter by meter. It was not however a straight cliff so Alex had to fend of the rock with his stumps and prosthetics.

Emebet turned down the ideas of being hauled up. So she clambered up the same way we all did. She was harnessed and roped up for safety, with a hard hat on. But she didn’t need any of that. She stormed up the cliff, faster than the belay team could draw in the rope.

The team gathered at the peak – Ras Dashen 4,533m

A moment of triumph -Alex, Emebet and David embrace at the peak

Once at the top she went straight over to Alex and gave him an emotional hug. It was a great moment. These two who had started out just over a week before as strangers, had now developed a deep bond, born out of a mutual respect and admiration. Each admiring the others bravery, strength and determination. They had conquered the challenges and summited this tall impressive mountain together.

What we all hope and believe is that Amex and Emebet’s conquest will stand as proof that disability is not inability and that even when life throws a heartbreaking role of the dice that means you live with out the full mobility of most people you can go forward and conquer what lies before you.

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